5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta: Insider’s Neighborhood Guide

Last Updated on May 21, 2024 by Kirsten Raccuia

Are you planning a visit or a move to Puerto Vallarta and want to stay in an authentic neighborhood? Then, the 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta area is for you. It’s been our stomping ground for the past year, and we’ve discovered all the best spots, including what makes it so perfect for expats, digital nomads, and travelers.

So, if you’re keen to know where to grab a bite, enjoy a drink, and just generally have a good time, stick around for my insider’s guide to the 5 de Diciembre ‘hood!

Why 5 de Diciembre in Puerto Vallarta?

When we first moved to Puerto Vallarta, we spent a year trying to find our perfect neighborhood. We lived in the Romantic Zone, also called Old Town, which is the most touristy area of town. And it’s a very vibrant place to live. But it’s far from an authentic, charming neighborhood or colonia in Espanol. 

We wanted less of a touristy vibe and more of a true Mexican neighborhood. So, after kissing a lot of frogs, we finally found our prince with this long-term rental in Cinco de Diciembre, which means the 5th of December, or 5D, for short. And we’re super happy here.

Here is why…

Where is 5 de Diciembre in Puerto Vallarta?

It’s just north of Centro and south of the Hotel Zone.

It runs from the Bay of Banderas in the west to the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains in the east. So, some residences are steps away from the beach on the flats, and others are high up in the hills with sweeping views of the jungle, mountains, and ocean.

Most commercial businesses are closer to the beach, so you don’t need a car to live here. But if you find a rental up in the hills, it definitely helps to have one. 

5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta map

The 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta vibe

Cinco de Diciembre has a lot going for it. 

Besides being right on the beach and close to everything, it’s not smack in the middle of the most touristy areas. And it’s super safe.

It’s a pretty compact area with restaurants and cafes, side by side with rentals, new construction condos and a big church. Plus, it’s home to plenty of shops, a wonderful seafood and produce market, coffee roasters, gyms and a grocery store.

It’s very family-friendly and vibrant, with kids running around and riding their bikes. It’s more relaxed and laid-back compared to the bustling tourist areas.

The cobblestone streets are charming (until you twist your ankle), but really, they do give the area a special kind of charm. Do not, I repeat, do not, plan to wear high-heels and walk around the 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta area. If you must, get trip insurance. 

Like most of Puerto Vallarta, 5D is loud. There is no such thing as a quiet zone, and if your neighbor hires a mariachi band on a Tuesday at 10 pm, I hope you like mariachi music. 

Besides the loud music, this area has roosters who cock-a-doodle all damn day and night. We also have a guy who leads a group of horses down to the beach, clip-clopping along our street.

At 10 pm, we have a bread man who comes in a truck and plays a very distinct Don Chonito bakery song that you will wake up singing long after he is gone. 

As I wrote, it’s a real, authentic neighborhood with all the amenities you’d want for your modern life.

Those are just some of the reasons we love it here. I haven’t even gotten into the beach or the food and drink options. That’s next. 

Five things to do in 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta:

Get your tan on at the 5 de Diciembre beach.

Playa Camarones is one of those beaches that is busy but rarely too busy. You’ll always find a spot, and it’s nothing like the crowded Los Muertos beach in the Romantic Zone. That means in whale watching season, you can spot all the whales from your towel on the sand!

No need to bring anything other than towels and sunscreen to this beach. There are vendors who will rent you an umbrella and two chairs if you’re pasty like me for around 300 pesos ($18). Once seated, people will stop by, offering everything from fresh oysters and ceviche to beers and margaritas.  

There are two beach clubs: Mangos and El Solar. Both say they have a minimum spend of around 350 pesos ($21) per person, but as long as you are eating and drinking, you’ll never be under.

We love going on Sundays when it’s full of happy Mexican families partying and enjoying family time. 

Check out the Our Lady of Refuge Parish (Parroquia Nuestra Señora del Refugio).

This church was built in 1960 and has beautiful arched doorways and windows with stained glass that give off stunning reflections as the sun moves throughout the day. 

Walk in and take a look around. But remember, this is a church. Don’t come in after a long day at the beach with a see-through coverup and flip-flops — people are there worshipping, ya know, actually doing what churchgoers do, so be mindful and respectful. 

People watch in Plaza Hidalgo (Hidalgo Square).

This small plaza, right in front of the Parish of Our Lady of Refuge, often has weekend fiestas. Everything from live music and tacos to BBQ competitions are held here. 

The square was built to honor Father Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, a leader and hero of the Mexican War of Independence. There is a statue of him front and center.

Try all the gourmet handmade chocolates at Xocodiva.

As you stand in Hidalgo Square with your back to the church, you’ll see a small store called Xocodiva.

Go there now! Do not pass go. (Or is it stop? It’s been a while since I played Monopoly).

Anyway, you have to try their handmade truffles, which look like tiny edible pieces of art. 

My faves are the cherry blossom, but you can’t go wrong with any of them. We’ve tried them all. I’m serious. 

Also, the ginger, blueberry, and dark chocolate bark is stupid-good. As is the chubby hubby.

I’m drooling just thinking about them.

Souvenir shop along Ave Mexico.

There are loads of beautiful shops along Ave Mexico, as well as the typical tchotchke ones. They are all fun to check out and shop for souvenirs. 

If you want beautiful Mexican pottery, head to Tlaquepaque Pottery, and you’ll find something unique.

Best restaurants in 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta:

Mariscos 8 Tostadas

Ocho Tostadas is commonly referred to as the best seafood place in town, and it’s just across from The Stadium. It’s no-frills, but you don’t need it to be. 

Try their shrimp ceviche and grilled octopus. You will thank me later.

Like a lot of seafood places, it’s only open until 7 pm.

El Andariego

With its hanging fuchsia bougainvillea, this place is so pretty you just want to walk inside. There is a guitarist every day but Wednesday, and the service is very good. 

They make margaritas as big as your torso, capable of toppling even the burliest of men. So, be prepared.

We order off the menu because they changed it recently. Order the sizzling molcajete with mixed seafood and meat. It comes with shrimp, beef, chicken, and nopal (cactus), all heated in a lava stone and covered with panela cheese and a secret sauce that makes you want to lick the molcajete clean when you are done. 

But don’t. The 3rd degree burns aren’t worth it. 

Barracuda

This place is the best spot for seafood on the beach. You can sit with your toes in the sand or up above on their deck, but no matter where you sit, you’ll have a front row to the glorious sunsets that make Puerto Vallarta so famous.

I’ve never had a bad meal or dish there. But they don’t take reservations, so be prepared to wait at peak hours. They have a full bar and own El Solar, their attached sister bar, as well. 

Insider tip: If you can’t get into Barracuda, go to El Solar. They share a menu so you can order the same food just next door. It’s a win-win. 

Pepe’s

Pepe’s is an institution. 

You’ll probably smell it before you see it, but when you get close, you’ll usually see a line hovering around a tantalizing pastor spit loaded with pork.

They are open until the wee hours, so they cater to the partygoers. And they serve alcohol so you can keep the party going.

But regardless of all that, their pastor tacos are good. As is everything else.

Carboncito

Just down the street towards the beach is the less touristy, arguably better, pastor spot. You should def try both and see which one is your fave.

They only serve beer, though. However, if you want a margarita or mixed drink, you can run across to Captain Don’s and grab a roadie.

La Traviata

Sunset views and good Italian food? Yes, please. This place has both in spades. 

Pollo Feliz

We only take out from here. But Pollo Feliz (Happy Chicken) is part of our weekly menu. 

They sell charcoal grill chicken that is so delectable that we stand up and eat it over the sink. It rarely makes it to a plate the first day.

On Tuesday, they have a promotion to buy one chicken and get half a chicken free. It comes with tortillas, salsa, chips and grilled jalapenos. And we eat the hell out of it.

La Notte Pizzeria

This is the best place for pizza in 5 de Diciembre, possibly even Puerto Vallarta. There are a few places I haven’t tried, so it’s still open to discussion. 

The owners are a young trio of entrepreneurs who spent time in Italy and know their stuff. 

It’s better to go in the cooler low season because its wood-fired pizza oven makes dining there in the summer heat a no-go for us. We take it to go, though, so we can always get our pizza fix.

Best bars in 5 de Diciembre:

Just like any city, there are a lot of bars in Puerto Vallarta, and 5 de Diciembre has its fair share. 

These are the places we take all our visitors. Our faves…

Tasting Room

This place is one of the best places in town if you want to learn about Mexican spirits, especially tequila, mezcal, raicilla, and sotol. Or if you want a tasting. It can be impromptu or set up ahead of time, but we usually just walk in, belly up to the bar and ask for a tasting. 

They have a full bar, but you’re only going to find Mexican brands, no Tito’s or Tanqueray. Everything is made in Mexico. 

And in most cases, they know the growers and producers. It’s an impressive spot. As are the bartenders who know it all. 

They make mean craft cocktails, as well as anything else your little heart desires.

El Solar

I mentioned this briefly above because it’s next door to Barracuda.

It’s right on the sand, so go early for a table at sundown. Order some nibbles from next door. Or just drink. Either way, it’s a great spot that usually plays reggae.  

Gusto’s Lounge

Best dive bar in the neighborhood that also happens to have some very tasty vinegary and spicy buffalo wings. 

Don’t try to go there for one because if Sergio and Naomi are there, you’ll be regaled with stories and tequila and might not leave for hours. 

Co-working cafes

These aren’t exclusively co-working places. They are cafes with good WIFI where loads of people work on a daily basis. But make sure you order food and drinks while working there. The staff can’t make money when you buy one coffee and a glass of water and sit for five hours. 

Not to mention it’s douchey.

Calmate

This place has great food and coffee and is vegetarian-friendly. They have some of the best salads in town as well. 

During high season, they are always busy, so if you need a quiet place, this might not be for you. 

The Green Place

This vegan spot is pretty large, so even when it’s busy, there is plenty of space to work. 

It’s known for its various vegan burgers, and I love the lavender lemonade. 

Where to get your groceries:

Mercado del Mar

The best seafood market in town is in 5 de Diciembre. Many of the restaurants shop there because it is so fresh. We get fresh tuna and shrimp regularly and have been trying all the local white fish options. 

There are also a couple of great produce vendors, as well as a creamery for dairy stuff.     

Casa Ley

This is the big grocery in the neighborhood. It’s not my favorite grocery store, and I don’t buy any protein there. But they have some good produce. And all the daily necessities are good.

The whole second floor has everything from hoses to hairspray. 

Where to get your sweat on:

After eating and drinking so much, you might want to exercise. Or not. No one is judging you here. 

But in case you do, there is where to go: 

The Stadium

The Stadium is an outdoor, erm, stadium, for lack of a better term. It has a running track, a boxing ring, tennis, basketball and pickleball courts, and baseball and soccer fields.

There’s even a weightlifting section that looks like it was snatched right from a prison yard. Not that I’ve seen one up in real life — only in the movies!

Take a stroll through it, and you’ll get a glimpse of the daily lives of the locals. 

Additionally, the streets outside it are lined with restaurants and small taco joints, so after you work out, you can refuel. 

Simmon’s Gym

This is where Mark and I work out. It’s a very basic gym that is pretty small. It’s affordable and two blocks from our apartment. Which is why we go there, even I am not that lazy!

There is no air conditioning, so we shall see how it is in the upcoming hot season.  Stay tuned… 

Pilates

A new Pilates studio just opened up on Calle Honduras. It’s only for privates since there are 2 reformers and not a lot of space.

Where to Stay in 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta

If you’re looking for luxury, the Villa Premiere Boutique Hotel & Romantic Getaway is a five-star adults-only beachfront hotel. When you check in, you’ll be handed a glass of bubbly to sip on as you get your welcome mini massage. Is there a better way to start your vacay? Me thinks not.

Another wonderful option is The Paramar Beachfront Boutique Hotel. Breakfast is included, and they have a great rooftop pool if you don’t feel like walking across the street to the beach.

Hotel El Pescador is another beachfront hotel that’s super low-key. The location is excellent, but it’s not as modern as the other two. It’s very clean, and they provide continental breakfast.

Check out all the Cinco places to stay in Puerto Vallarta. There are a lot of vacation rentals, too. Check here for more.

The 5 de Diciembre Puerto Vallarta Wrap Up

Living in 5 de Diciembre has really given us a different perspective of living in Puerto Vallarta. The neighborhood always has something up its sleeve. From its cobblestone streets that challenge my high-heeled ways to the symphony of roosters and mariachi bands that serenade us at odd hours, this neighborhood keeps our lives interesting.

Beyond the food and lively atmosphere lies an authentic and warm community. So, if you’re up for a dash of spontaneity and a pinch of chaos, 5 de Diciembre may just be the perfect neighborhood for you.

Even if the breadman’s tune gets stuck in your head for days. 

If you want info on other neighborhoods in Puerto Vallarta, read my Where to Stay in Puerto Vallarta guide.

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