Last Updated on October 23, 2024 by Kirsten Raccuia
Puerto Vallarta vs Playa del Carmen—which beach town reigns supreme?
It’s a question that is hard to answer—the answer is different depending on what you are looking for. Are you a digital nomad? Retiree? Or just looking for a vacation destination? It’s even a massive subject on Reddit.
To answer the question for ourselves, Mark and I went on a scouting mission to figure out which beach town would win our hearts.
Turns out, there are a lot of pros and some cons to both towns and a lot of reasons to choose both. It was a close battle.
SPOILER ALERT: Since we’ve been living in Puerto Vallarta for a year now, you can probably guess our answer.
But in saying that, I wanted to write about why we chose to stay in Puerto Vallarta vs Playa del Carmen. Especially since it’s one of the top expat havens in Mexico.
Hopefully, it’ll help you decide which town makes better sense for you.
So, let’s get started…
Best for Character and Charm: Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen
Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta, a beach destination on the west coast of Mexico, has an old-world feel but with all the modern amenities you could dream up.
The quaint cobblestone streets are lined with multimillion-dollar properties, and I adore that juxtaposition. But not the cobblestones. Those suckers are ankle breakers. Ask my mom.
Despite the influx of tourism and massive cruise ships docking daily, Puerto Vallarta has managed to hold onto its traditional Mexican charm and blend it with a cosmopolitan vibe.
You can spend endless hours lounging on the golden-sand beaches and watching the sunsets. Then soak up the city’s electric buzz that lasts well into the wee hours along the Malecon or boardwalk.
Amidst the hustle and bustle, you’ll find hidden gems like tiny tortillerias and taco stalls serving up generations-old recipes, adding to the city’s authentic appeal. It’s a crazy, chaotic blend of old and new.
It’s also the LGTBQ capital of Mexico. Read vibrant, inclusive, and colorful.
Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen on the east coast is just south of Cancun. Unlike the deep beaches in Puerto Vallarta, the beaches in Playa are slimmer. Still, the incredibly calm, bath-like Caribbean Sea makes up for its lack of space.
This town doesn’t have a real beachy vibe. Instead, 5th Avenue, or Quinta Avenida, takes center stage.
It’s a wide, mile-long pedestrian boardwalk parallel to the beach. Like the Malecon in Puerto Vallarta, it has high-end restaurants, cafes, and shopping. But unlike Vallarta, which has more kitschy souvenir shops, 5th Ave has better boutiques and clothing stores.
If shopping is your thing, you’ll be happy in Playa. And if you can’t find it there, head to Cancun, where you can find everything under the sun and then some. And there are so many things to do while you’re in Cancun you might want to stay for a hot minute.
In some ways, Playa feels polished and sophisticated. Maybe because it exudes a distinctly European vibe due to the European expats who have made it their home. We heard more English and other languages being spoken than Spanish. It’s pretty different from Puerto Vallarta, where Spanish is definitely the dominant language.
The Winner of the Puerto Vallarta vs Playa del Carmen Vibe Face-Off?
Puerto Vallarta takes the win for its overall modernity while keeping its traditional Mexican feel and throwing in some beach town vibes. Plus, it’s super inclusive, which the world needs right now.
Best for Rentals: Playa del Carmen vs Puerto Vallarta
Searching for rentals in either town isn’t easy, but when is finding housing easy? We saw a stupid amount of rentals in Penang before hitting the jackpot. So maybe we are extra picky. I’ll go with that.
You can spend a zillion or practically zip in either town. I’ve seen places from $300 to $3000. And I know there are luxury rentals that surpass $3000, but my gag reflex spontaneously kicks in above that number.
As for the $300 rental, it’s not for us.
Who wants to live in the middle of the jungle with no a/c, a 25-minute walk to the beach, and up 100 stairs? Not me, but I know someone who loves that kind of living. All I can imagine is being a sweaty, mosquito-bitten mess. On the plus side, I’d have a great booty from all those stairs. Ya know, I’m a silver-lining kind of gal.
For a nice yearly one-bedroom rental with all the essentials, expect to pay between $800-1200 in Vallarta and $1000-1500 in Playa del Carmen. But, of course, prices go up for short-term stays and during the snowbird season—November to March. And if you want to be close to the beach or have a gym and a pool, be prepared to pay even more.
However, if you can forgo those luxuries at home, heading out to a pool (or beach) and joining a gym is a great way to make new friends. Take it from me; you won’t meet people easily if you are sitting at home working all day long.
Finding luxury apartments is easier than finding affordable ones. To make matters more complex, in the last year, rental demands have risen sharply throughout Mexico, and along with them, the costs.
A few tips on finding rentals:
Rental agents are a dime a dozen in Mexico.
Everyone claims to be one, and rarely are they qualified. Just because they have a room to rent doesn’t make them an agent.
So, doubt everything you find online until you further investigate.
If it’s too cheap, there is a reason. A nightclub opens at midnight and plays blaring music until 6 am. Or a taco stall or seafood market just below your first-floor apartment, so you’ll smell like meat or fish daily. Investigate morning, noon, and night before you sign a thing.
A good tip is to look during the low season, from March to November.
And remember to be patient.
The Winner of the Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta Rentals Showdown?
It’s a tie. Neither place is as affordable as Penang. But both are less expensive than the rest of North America, Australia, and most of Europe.
Best for Activities: Puerto Vallarta Vs. Playa del Carmen
Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta has more activities, especially outdoor activities than you can shake a maraca at. But so does Playa.
Adventure seekers will have a field day in Vallarta. You can go ziplining, ATV riding, parasailing, and horseback riding on the beach.
You can go hiking in the Sierra Madre Mountains, not that I have. But I have hiked along the coast from beach to beach, which is pretty spectacular and ends with beers on a few beaches. This gives you a hint as to why I prioritized that hike.
You can also go skydiving over the mountains if hiking doesn’t do it for you. Or do all the watersports, learn to surf in neighboring Sayulita, and chill in nearby hot springs.
Playa del Carmen
Playa del Carmen offers similar activities like ziplining and ATV riding in the jungle, but what sets it apart are all the ruins and cenotes in the Yucatan Peninsula.
Within a 90-minute drive, you can visit the ruins in Tulum and Coba. Both Maya cities offer a glimpse into the region’s vibrant history.
For an extra dose of adventure, the Coba Ruins still allow visitors to climb its 136-foot-tall pyramid. Don’t try that in the famous pyramids of Chichen Itza, or you’ll get hazed by a crowd of angry locals. And rightfully so.
Cenotes are hands-down the most astonishing natural phenomenon in the area.
They are natural sinkholes with crystal-clear aqua water full of little fishies and turtles and surrounded by lush jungle. The Mayans considered them sacred and used them for water and to sacrifice to the gods. There are about 10,000 in Quintana Roo, and my absolute fave to explore. They are very Lara Tomb Raider-esque.
The winner of the Puerto Vallarta vs. Playa del Carmen activities dust-up is…
While both towns offer thrilling experiences, Playa del Carmen takes the cake with its unique and stunning cenotes that I can’t get enough of. So how does “Kirsten, Cenote Raider” sound?
Best Food Scene: Playa del Carmen vs Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta
Puerto Vallarta is a food lover’s paradise! You can find it all here, from international cuisine to some of the best Mexican food.
But let’s be real. The real gem is the street food.
Taco stalls are scattered all around the city. Pick a busy one and order.
My favorite is the el pastor taco stall kiddy-corner to the Oxxo in the Romantic Zone.
El pastor is a local treat that is harder to find on the east coast. It’s a hunk of spit-roasted pork that turns for hours and is topped with a whole pineapple. The outside gets crispy as it cooks, and the taco man (it’s always a man) slices off the bits. He adds a slice of warm pineapple, cilantro, and onions to the homemade tortilla. You douse it with at least 2 of their family recipe salsas, if not 3, and shove it in your face while sitting on a plastic stool. It costs about a buck.
Don’t expect to find many chain restaurants here. Most places are independently owned and might even be inside their homes, like Dona Chela’s. We walked in, and were greeted by the granddaughter while abuela (gramma) was cooking in the kitchen. You know it’s good when grams is cooking, not my grams, she ordered out. But other grams.
Now on to Playa del Carmen
It also has a great food scene but is a bit more upscale, especially around 5th Ave, where the restaurants are extravagant and high-end. There are a lot more chains, and every restaurant’s interior is prettier than the next. The food might have been good, but the ambiance was even better.
It’s also very international. Steakhouses, Brazilian churrascarias, sushi, Turkish, American food, you name it. We stumbled upon Sakura Ramen, a refreshingly authentic Japanese place, on our first night. We have yet to find that in Puerto Vallarta.
But you know what we felt was missing?
Mexican food. We only saw a few taco stalls.
So, which is the winner of the Vallarta vs. Playa Food Battle Royale?
Overall, both cities have fantastic dining options, but if you’re looking for some delicious street food, Puerto Vallarta is your best bet! Unfortunately for us, Playa del Carmen’s food lacked the authentic Mexican places that make the country a food lover’s dream.
Best for Nightlife: Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta
Both places have epic nightlife options.
Vallarta has entertainment on tap. From drag shows and impersonators to thumping nightclubs and evening gallery hops, there truly is something for everyone.
In Playa, every bar/restaurant has live entertainment, from DJs to live bands and mariachis. The nightclubs are even more epic than the restaurants, some holding hundreds if not thousands of partiers.
Winner of the Puerto Vallarta vs. Playa del Carmen Nightlife Duel?
Cancun.
Ok, I know that wasn’t an option, but I made it one. When comparing Puerto Vallarta vs. Playa del Carmen vs. Cancun, it’s clear the latter is the nightlife mecca.
However, if you want gay bars and nightlife, Vallarta wins hands down.
Best for Beaches: Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen
After living on an island with less than stellar beaches (Penang, I’m looking at you), our next move had to be somewhere with glorious beaches. Both Puerto Vallarta and Playa del Carmen fit the bill. But there are some very distinct differences.
Puerto Vallarta
Vallarta’s beaches are vast; you can walk them for miles until you find your ideal spot. The water is the deep azure of the Pacific, with rolling, sometimes thunderous waves breaking at the shore. Unfortunately, you can’t surf here, but Sayulita is a surfer’s paradise just an hour north.
Puerto Vallarta’s famed Los Muertos Beach is backed by bars and restaurants and is lined with chaise lounges, umbrellas, and beach clubs.
Some are free if you order drinks and food from them. Our free fave is Swell. They make a badass salad and an even better cielo rojo, my new favorite hangover morning drink. It’s clamato, beer, hot sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and salt and pepper. Don’t knock it till you try it. It’ll give you a reason to drink in the morning.
Other beach clubs are 300-500 pesos ($17-28), which goes toward food and drinks. They offer more of a white tablecloth experience. You’ll get a thick and comfy lounge chair, a lot more space to spread out, and very attentive service.
We love La Palapa, as do all our guests. We always order the seared tuna sandwich with pesto aioli and a paloma for me and a spicy margarita for Mark. My mom goes for the mimosa bar with four different fruit juice options.
Playa del Carmen
On the other hand, Playa del Carmen’s beaches are absolutely swoon-worthy. With sand like powdered sugar, it’s some of the softest, whitest sand I’ve ever stepped foot on. Playa’s beaches are hard to beat. Add in water that is crystalline aqua, and you have a postcard.
The Caribbean Sea is warm and calm and just thinking about it makes me feel like a Zen master.
There are some beach clubs, but they are much more spread out. And since the beaches are narrower, they are less packed.
However, even paradise isn’t perfect.
Playa del Carmen, and all of the Riviera Maya, has a horrendous sargassum season, dumping tons (literally) of rotten-smelling seaweed on the shore.
So, is Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta the winner of the beach head-to-head?
Seaweed aside, there is a clear champ. It’s Playa del Carmen for the win. As beautiful as PV’s beaches are, they don’t compare to the Caribbean Sea and its brochure-blue water.
Best for Sunsets: Puerto Vallarta vs Playa del Carmen
Puerto Vallarta has some of the best sunsets on the planet. They are epic. Watching the symphony of colors as the blazing amber sun drops into the ocean never gets old.
On the other hand, Playa only has sunrises. Not to sound ungrateful for nature’s gifts, but I’m not a sunrise person and don’t plan to be. The whole time we were in Playa, I felt like something was missing. It’s not a deal breaker, but as the day slides into night, I want the drama. I want to see the breathtaking hues of nature.
They complete my day.
Winner of the best sunset fracas between Playa del Carmen and Puerto Vallarta?
Obviously, PV is the victor in this category.
Cost of Living Tussle between Playa Del Carmen and Puerto Vallarta
When exploring new destinations, I always keep track of our spending.
During the last year in Puerto Vallarta, we spent roughly $2500 monthly. And that’s without being too thrifty!
However, I must admit we got an unbeatable deal on rent through a friend, which kept our budget extraordinarily low. We are moving into our new condo on May 24th, so once we are settled, I’ll do a complete cost of living in Puerto Vallarta blog.
Anyway, back to budgeting.
Since street food is king in Vallarta, it’s very easy to find affordable eats, so we can stretch our money further.
Additionally, Puerto Vallarta sees a lot of Mexican tourism, which helps keep prices from skyrocketing. However, Playa del Carmen is filled with foreign tourists, and the cost of living reflects that.
During our recon trip to Playa del Carmen, we chatted with some expats and found that their cost of living was higher than ours. Their rents were between $1800-2500, and their monthly expenses totaled around $5000. But they also felt like they were living large and didn’t need to keep a tight budget. So, living in Playa del Carmen could be cheaper if you’re willing to make some budget cuts.
Ultimately, it all boils down to your lifestyle and how much you’re comfortable spending.
So which town is the cost-of-living winner? Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen?
It’s a tie. No town stands head and shoulders over the other. It depends on you.
Best for Food Markets: Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen
No matter where we are in the world, the first thing we do is go to a food market. It tells you so much about a culture and is the best place to try local food. But in Playa, we didn’t find many local markets. Large and small grocery stores, sure. But not free-standing markets with a few produce stalls, fish sellers and butchers all in one place.
In Puerto Vallarta, they are many.
In the Old Town, where we’ve been living, the Emiliano Zapata market is the best. People come from all around to shop there. It’s open daily (a few stalls close on Sunday), and we get everything there.
When we move, we’ll be in a new neighborhood called Cinco de Diciembre, 5D or Cinco for short. There is a fab market 7 minutes walking from our condo, with a giant fish and seafood selection. We bought fresh tuna and prawns there and fed three people for under $20.
It’s not as big as the Emiliano Zapata market, so we may have to supplement in the nearby local grocery store, Casa Ley. Otherwise, we have no shortage of big box stores—Walmart, Sam’s, and Costco. I’m just waiting for Sephora, and all will be right in the world.
The winner of the food market shop-off, Playa del Carmen vs Puerto Vallarta?
Puerto Vallarta offers more in the way of daily local markets for sure.
Best for Ease of Travel: Puerto Vallarta vs Playa del Carmen
Nothing sucks more than flying all day and waiting for connections. Luckily, both tourist destinations have international airports nearby. The direct flight options from many major North American cities are the cherry on top of the sundae.
Puerto Vallarta’s international airport (PVR) is about 30 minutes north of downtown, meaning you won’t miss a sunset even on the day you fly in.
Taxis, shuttles, and buses will take you directly into town. If you want an Uber, you’ll have to cross the pedestrian bridge over the highway and get picked up there. Currently, they aren’t allowed to pick up from the airport. Drop-off is fine.
Playa del Carmen is about 1 hour and 15 minutes south of the Cancun airport (CUN). There are buses and taxis to take you wherever you want to go.
Since both have airports, you could live large and fly from Playa del Carmen to Puerto Vallarta and get the best of both coasts. But you’d be missing out on all the good stuff in the middle, like Mexico City, San Miguel, Guanajuato, the hot springs of Grutas Tolantongo… it’s a long list.
Winner of the ease of travel rumpus between Puerto Vallarta and Playa del Carmen?
I suppose I could say PV wins this by a mile or two, but it’s a tie. With airports so close and plenty of direct flights, there is no loser.
So, is Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen better?
For us, Puerto Vallarta edges out Playa del Carmen, obviously—we’ve been here for a year and just signed another year lease. But there’s just something about its
authentic charm and undeniable Mexican vibes that screams “Mexico” to us daily. We didn’t feel that in the Riviera Maya.
It’s like comparing a lip-smacking taco to a taco without salsa. There is just something missing.
So, now we plan to settle into our new condo, which is only a five-minute walk to the beach. And between working from home and discovering a new neighborhood, you can bet your sunscreen-covered booty we’ll be parked at the beach, toasting the glorious sunsets and embracing the magic of Puerto Vallarta.
FAQ
Is Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen more expensive?
It’s hard to say. You can find affordable rentals, hotels, food and activities in both if you look hard enough. But it’s easy to spend loads of cash in both as well.
Is it better to live in Puerto Vallarta or Playa del Carmen?
We think Puerto Vallarta is better for living long-term. The culture, the street food, and the markets make it a very livable city. Not to mention the inclusivity.
Does Puerto Vallarta have better beaches than Cancun?
Cancun and the Riviera Maya have stellar beaches as long as it isn’t sargassum season, which can last for months.
Is Playa del Carmen or Puerto Vallarta better for a vacation?
It depends on the kind of vacation you want. For all-inclusive resorts and chilling on the beaches, Playa del Carmen is the winner. For a more Mexican cultural experience with great beaches, head to Puerto Vallarta.
This was an excellent read, I’ve been going back and forth between these two beautiful cities but this really helped me see that over is more my speed! Thank you so much for all the info!
Hi Shaunte! I’m so glad to know this helped you! Thanks for reading.
Kirsten
I lived in Playa for 4 months and there are many taco joints all over if you venture past 5th Ave. Some of the best bbq chicken and ribs I’ve ever had is on 30th Ave and Calle 48th.
Av. Constituyentes has many authentic tacos pastor spots. Not many carts but more sit down spots. Cheap and great service.
Thanks for the review. I would be more of a PVR individual. Just seems to have more “culture”. As a side note, my sister and her husband just spent 3 weeks in the remote areas of Bali and are currently in Penang for a week. They are loving it. She said it reminds her of Singapore int he 80’s.
Hi Bill, Thanks for the message!
Go team PV!
The remote areas of Bali are getting harder to find but they are there. Glad they are enjoying it and Penang!
Another stellar post!👏👏 Though I am biased … and we’re almost at a memory time. We spent Ed’s birthday with you at Playa drinking tequila & had a fabulous meal later. We totally agree that PV is better and we’re so glad we’re closer to you! Can’t wait to see you guys again!!,
Thank you, Sally. I can’t wait for another reunion. It’s time!
Glad to see your Stuff again. You May remember me, I finally retired and made it to the Philippines. My wife is her also so I’m a happy retired camper. List of future Luck to you and let’s all enjoy Life!!
Hiiiii Larry! So glad you and the missus have retired in the Philippines! Fantastic! Enjoy it!
Hi Kirsten , it’s ma’am. I loved your blog of course PV is my favorite excluding the cobblestone streets even though it’s charming I loved learning the differences between the two places but my moneys on PV and I can’t wait to get back there again.
Hi Mom,
Thank you. It’s a direct flight, so don’t wait!
good read…. and we can’t wait to see you again on the beach…..
Yesssss! Now that you guys are back in this time zone. Hurry over!
I’ve been itching for a hands-on Mexico review, thanks for that. I’ll try to make it over soon, and you’re always welcome in Barcelona.
Thank you, Michael! Yes, please come! And we def have Barcelona on the brain too!